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h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
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tim hill Offline
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Post: #1
h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
I am creating an indoor orchid grow rack and cannot decide which type of flourescent lighting is better, the high output ballast t5s or the standard t12 ballasts. Also what is the optimum lumens for orchid growth. Is more light always better? Would appreciate a response soon as i just bought some orchids at your show last weekend and currently do not have a suitable window for natural light. Thank you
Wednesday, Apr 21, 2010 11:40 AM
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scott Offline
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Post: #2
RE: h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
As we've said - there are truly no right or wrong answers

For many years myself I've used standard t12 bulbs - both cool and warm mixed with plant bulbs for my Phalaenopsis orchids.

A few years ago I upgraded to T5 bulbs.. and honestly they were a little too bright the first year for my phals - but after almost two years they're just about right.

Theres also t8 bulbs.

Advantages / disadvantages:

regular t-12 bulbs usually should be replaced every 9 - 12 months.

both t-8 and t-5 last longer. The lights should be replaced though every few years...

my suggestion? Regular t-12 works fine if the bulbs will be within 9-12" of the tops of the plants.

if you want a litlte more height between bulbs and plants, I'd go with t-8 if you're mostly growing phalaenopsis or slipper orchids (paphs).

If you're growing cattleyas or any other higher light requiring plants I'd go with the t-5's

Does that answer your questions?
Friday, Apr 23, 2010 05:42 PM
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scott Offline
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Post: #3
RE: h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
Sorry that was a quick answer.

Usually t-12 (standard, what you see in people's garages) are available at home improvement stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Osh) as are now t-8's. I haven't seen t-5's at these, only online but some hydroponics stores (you know.. those stores selling supplies to grow TOMATOES) may sell these fixtures.

t12's use the old style ballast - so while they're the cheapest approach initially, they are a bit (not really that much compared to incandescent) more expensive to run in the long run. t5's and t8's use new electonic ballasts - so the fixtures are smaller and tend to "hum" less.

either way - you will want to go with a minimum of FOUR bulbs across (often it is cheaper to buy two two bulb fixtures and put them side by side than buying one four bulb fixture).

You will want to make the fixtures adjustable - so you can raise them or lower them.

Did you see the great setup that Bev Moon, one of our board members did at the show? She used a silver bakers rack available at Home Depot or Lowes and put light fixtures on two shelves.

Under your plants you should have trays. You can buy inexpensive $1 black 2" deep trays. Put these side by side and duct tape them together so they don't slide around.

On top of these use WHITE eggcrate - the stuff they use for flourescent fixtures. This will help BOUNCE light back up to the plants that normally would be wasted - and it keeps your plants up out of the trays where there should be water to help provide humidity. You can also just put rocks in the trays - but this is less clean than the egg crate.

You can enclose 3 sides of your fixture to try and keep humidity inside - but leave one side open for access and air ventilation. To that end, you should also provide a small circulating fan somewhere in or nearby to provide much needed airflow!

TAKE YOUR PLANTS to your sink to water! Don't get lazy and try and water on the plant rack. If you use the bakers rack, you can get wheels for it.. and roll it to the sink! :)

good luck.. soon we;ll be posting more pics of the rack we'd recommend and a step-by-step. If you have further questions, let me know

scott


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Friday, Apr 23, 2010 05:53 PM
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scott Offline
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Post: #4
RE: h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
I guess I totally missed initially your other questions.

No, more light is NOT always better. too much light can sunburn or burn your orchids. Sunburn starts out by looking like purplish edges or purple shading to the otherwise green leaves (often on the undersides first, then spreading to the rest of the leaf... this is essentially like a suntan for the leaf.. only once its there..its there and will never go away until the leaf dies). Advanced sunburn (which can happen with lights, too) turns brown then white and often then black. These sunburn spots can cause an infection route for bacterial and fungal diseases.

There are low light orchids such as phalaenopsis (moth orchids) and paphs (lady slipper orchids). These can take lower light levels - say 1,000 to 1,500 foot candles.

While other orchids like cattleyas and dendrobiums and vandas require higher light - 2,000, 2,500 or MORE light. Minis cattleyas (cats) can take less light than medium or large ones, as well.

Light requirements also will vary depending on temperature, size of plant and other factors...

First - what kind of orchids do you have and we can go from there?

The society has a light meter members can check out of our library.. or there are inexpensive ones you can buy at nurseries and big box stores.

light should be either natural (following the season) or 12 hours of light and 12 hours of TOTAL darkness. Up to 16 hours of light can be given... but I like to vary it.

scott
Friday, Apr 23, 2010 06:01 PM
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tim hill Offline
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Post: #5
RE: h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
[quote='scott' pid='107' dateline='1272070905']
I guess I totally missed initially your other questions.

No, more light is NOT always better. too much light can sunburn or burn your orchids. Sunburn starts out by looking like purplish edges or purple shading to the otherwise green leaves (often on the undersides first, then spreading to the rest of the leaf... this is essentially like a suntan for the leaf.. only once its there..its there and will never go away until the leaf dies). Advanced sunburn (which can happen with lights, too) turns brown then white and often then black. These sunburn spots can cause an infection route for bacterial and fungal diseases.

There are low light orchids such as phalaenopsis (moth orchids) and paphs (lady slipper orchids). These can take lower light levels - say 1,000 to 1,500 foot candles.

While other orchids like cattleyas and dendrobiums and vandas require higher light - 2,000, 2,500 or MORE light. Minis cattleyas (cats) can take less light than medium or large ones, as well.

Light requirements also will vary depending on temperature, size of plant and other factors...

First - what kind of orchids do you have and we can go from there?

The society has a light meter members can check out of our library.. or there are inexpensive ones you can buy at nurseries and big box stores.

light should be either natural (following the season) or 12 hours of light and 12 hours of TOTAL darkness. Up to 16 hours of light can be given... but I like to vary it.

scott
[/quote]
Monday, Apr 26, 2010 12:33 AM
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taithelles Offline
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Post: #6
RE: h.o.flourescent lights(t5) vs standard(t12)
Advanced sunburn which can occur in the light, too and then turn white, then black-brown is often. The sunburn spots can cause infection route of bacteria and fungi diseases.

lights grow
Thursday, Apr 07, 2011 06:54 AM
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